Surface preparation. is the most important procedure and needs to be properly done to ensure that your chosen finish will look good and last longer.

Proper surface preparation is a must and is the key to a successful job. Another important fact that is often overlooked is the failure to read directions before starting, or then failing to follow those directions. So read the directions and follow them as close as possible.

There are certain facts of nature that dictate what steps are necessary to properly prepare the surface before applying the finish. Wood, as inert as you might think it is, has a chemistry all of it’s own. First of all, it is close to neutral in pH, much the same as drinking water. Any chemical you apply is likely to change the basic chemistry of the wood and may affect the performance of your finish.

That means once you have prepared the wood and before applying the finish, you should try to return the wood to a neutral pH. Wood is also a food source for various insects and fungi. They need to be treated prior to application of your finish. There are a couple of other things that may be present on your wood that will also need to be removed.

Let’s start with brand new wood right out of the mill. As the logs are planed , the process creates surface heat and pressure. This heat can cause the starches and sugars to form mill glaze on the surface of the logs, which is very smooth, somewhat slick. Mill glaze can inhibit adhesion and penetration of finishes. Most finish manufacturers recommend to remove mill glaze prior to application. You should also remove any dirt, mold, mildew and sawdust that accumulated while your home was being dried in.

One old standby procedure was to wash the home down with household bleach. Some manufacturers recommend this method to remove mold and mildew. If you are determined to use bleach, remember these facts:

1. Bleach is caustic and can cause burns and respiratory distress.

2. Bleach not only kills grass and landscaping plants, it also destroys lignin it the wood. Lignin is what holds the wood fibers together.

3. Pure bleach causes the home to "fuzz up" as the lignin is destroyed and the fibers break loose from each other.

If you still want to use bleach, you need to make it safer by diluting it with water at a ratio of four parts water to one part bleach. Put the bleach/water solution in a low-pressure garden sprayer and start at the bottom course of logs to prevent streaking and work your way up the wall.

Allow the solution to remain on the surface for 15-20 minutes and then rinse repeatedly with a low power pressure washer. Remember, the bleach has now changed the chemistry of the wood and you need to get it back to neutral. Rinse and rinse and rinse, and when you think you have rinsed enough, rinse again. It’s also a good idea to check the pH of the run off water with pH paper to determine just how well you have rinsed.

A better alternative to bleaching is to use the percarbonate cleaners like Wood Renew or Prep. The percarbonate cleaners react with water to form hydrogen peroxide, a light form of bleach borrowed from the detergent industry. These remove mold and mildew and brighten the wood. They are formulated to remove dirt and other unwanted grunge from the wood. Again you also need to rinse these as well to return the wood to a neutral pH.

You’re probably wondering about this neutral pH balance, and why is it so important? Wood is a very interesting object and usually is very forgiving. But whenever the pH balance of wood is altered, the chances of developing iron tannate stains increases. While these stains do not damage the wood, they are unsightly and are very often misdiagnosed as mold or mildew under the finish. If tannin stains develop, they are easily removed with a treatment of oxalic acid solution, like OxCon. This solution is normally referred to as a "blonding" agent.

 Oxalic acid is a mild acid, but must be treated with caution and properly rinsed off to bring the chemical balance of the wood back to neutral.

You should apply log finish as soon as the home has adequately dried. And remember, wood is very forgiving, but it is also natural. There are some stains that come along with any wood. Blue stain or sapstain is a natural occurrence, and for the most part cannot be removed. Some people try to remove it by spot sanding. While this may lighten the color somewhat, it’s best to leave it alone. Spot sanding is a problem too. It creates different surface textures that result in different color acceptance of sanded areas making the finish "blotchy" or uneven. If you must sand, then sand the entire wall, or you will not be pleased with the results.

For first time pressure washer users, use a low pressure setting if possible and "sneak up" on the surface. Start farther back from the wood and then move in as you get comfortable. High-pressure water can damage wood and necessitate sanding the entire structure to remove the fuzz. For best results, use a 15-degree nozzle pattern and start slowly.

Remember not all stains can be removed with a pressure washer. If done properly, it will all come out in the wash. Follow the directions, be well informed before you start the process, and the results will be rewarding. And remember, rinse, rinse and then rinse again!