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Tennessee Log Homes

Control of Carpenter Bees

Agricultural publication G7424 — Reviewed October 15, 1996
Darryl P. Sanders
Department of Entomology, University of Missouri-Columbia

The name carpenter bee applies to several species of bees found in the United States. The only one of importance in Missouri is a large species, Xylocopa virginica (L.), which is widely recognized as the carpenter bee. Like a bumble bee, it is about 1 inch in length and black with some markings of yellow hair. Unlike that of the bumble bee, the top surface of the carpenter bee's abdomen lacks yellow hair markings. It is almost hairless and appears to be entirely black and rather shiny.

Carpenter bees often fly near eaves and gables of houses. Residents may become frightened by this activity because male bees patrol these areas and may fly near people. They are unable to sting. The females do not actively defend the nest but will sting if handled.

Habits

Carpenter bees generally are beneficial insects because they pollinate numerous species of plants. They may become destructive, however, through their habit of digging nests in wooden buildings.

People may become alarmed when holes, about 1/2 inch in diameter, begin to appear in exposed wood. In addition, unsightly defecation stains are usually present near these holes.

The entrance hole is a nearly perfect circle. It usually goes straight into the wood a short distance, then makes a 90-degree turn and runs with the wood grain. Several galleries may lead from a single entrance.

The female builds individual brood cells in the gallery, stocking each with pollen and nectar before laying an egg and sealing the cell. The new bees emerge in late summer, feed and then re-enter the galleries for the winter. In spring they reuse existing galleries or build new ones. Infestations may persist for several years.

While carpenter bees attack many species of dried, seasoned wood, they seem to prefer softwoods such as pine, fir, redwood and cedar. They may damage porch and shed ceilings, railings, overhead trim, wooden porch furniture, dead tree limbs, fence posts, wooden shingles, wooden siding, window sills and wooden doors. They prefer unpainted or well-weathered wood to painted or hardwood timbers. The wood preferred is at least 2 inches thick.

Control

Carpenter bees should be treated after dark when bees are calm, preferably on cool nights. Use a pressurized can of spray that shoots a stream of liquid for quick knock-down of bees. This spray is good only for immobilizing the bees so you can place a residual (longer lasting) insecticide inside the galleries. Use only one of the following residual insecticides:
  •  bendiocarb (Ficam) 1% dust
  •  carbaryl (Sevin) 5% dust or 1% spray
  •  chlorpyrifos (Dursban) 1% dust or 0.5% spray
  •  cyfluthrin (Tempo) 0.1% spray
  •  cypermethrin (Cynoff, Demon) 0.2% spray
  •  permethrin (Flee) 0.5% spray
Dust is most easily placed in the gallery opening using a hand duster. A flexible lotion bottle with nozzle makes an acceptable duster. A pin stream of spray should be used to apply the liquid. Cotton soaked in one of the liquid insecticides and then placed into the gallery is an effective application method. Wear rubber gloves while handling such material.

After treatment, fill the outer holes with caulking compound, plastic wood or a tight-fitting wooden dowel glued in place. If paint on the wooden surface is not undesirable, painting will discourage further attack by other carpenter bees.

If the bees pose no particular threat, you might consider delaying preventive measures, since treating existing nests is easiest and most effective early in the year. Treat nests before the bees become active. This way you can be sure that there are no stragglers outside the treatment area that might start a new nest at a nearby untreated location.

 

TLH Note:  Perma-Chink Systems, Inc. recommends CSP 2-D (mixed with their ProGuard topcoat as an effective treatment for Carpenter Bees.
 
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