|
||
|
|
||
|
CLICK HERE to learn more and/or register, and read hundreds of testimonials.
FREE Literature
FREE Monthly Newsletter
Home Shows
Quality Links
|
|
ROOF
SYSTEM INSTALLATION
The roof system discussed herein is a
Premier Roof System as opposed to a conventional roof system.
Premier Roof Systems consist of 3x12 ridge beams, 4x8 rafters and
collars, 2x6 tongue & groove decking, 15-pound felt vapor barrier,
vented roof insulation panels, 7/16” OSB and 6” cap nails.
Air entryways will be incorporated to allow for roof ventilation.
The following sketch illustrates the Premier Roof System: HOUSE
ROOF FRAMING
If a shed dormer is to be built, do so
before rafter installation and brace off with 2x4’s.
The wall should sit on top of the decking of the second floor
system and should be inset properly to allow for 1/2” rigid foam
insulation and exterior siding (even with the ends of the second floor
joists which were previously inset).
The siding must match properly to the exterior log wall profile.
The following detail illustrates proper shed dormer installation.
After constructing the shed dormer wall, mark the location of
rafters which sit on top of this wall.
Also, locate dormers and construct the dormer stud walls.
Mark the location of dormer ridge beams and rafters.
Again, now is the time to clean, sand and
stain (if applicable) your ridge beams and rafters, before installation.
Check your Materials List (copy in blueprints and in warranty
packet) to determine size and length of ridge beams and rafters shipped.
Be certain to use the proper length for each application as
specified on the materials list.
From the blueprints, find the location of
the ridge beam and get the first piece of ridge in place and braced off.
Use the proper lengths as indicated on the Materials List, and make
sure the ridge is level and square with the house.
Join the second piece of ridge beam to the first at the center of a
rafter location as shown below. Fasten
ridge beam pieces together as shown above and brace splice underneath with
temporary 2x bracing. Check
the blueprints and Materials List as to precise location of splices.
Continue to splice pieces until the entire ridge is in place.
Be sure to keep the ridge level and square with the home and
properly braced.
Valley rafters will then need to be
installed (if applicable) and are usually 3x12 material as well.
Study the blueprints for precise location.
Check your Materials List as well to make sure you use the correct
lengths of material.
Once the ridge beam is in its proper
place, mark the location of rafters on the ridge bam.
Make sure these locations correspond to locations previously marked
on the top of the log walls. Rafter
centers must join the ridge beam directly across from one another.
You are now ready to begin installing the
rafters. Chisel away the
tongues on top of the log where the rafters will sit. Rafters should sit on the log top, not on the tongues.
It is best to get rafter measurements and precut rafters on the
subfloor or ground before installing.
2x8’s can be used to make templates by actually holding 2x8 in
place at different locations and marking the proepr cuts.
Then use the 2x8 to mark the 4x8 rafters.
Do not cut all rafters until you are sure the cuts are right!
Use proper “bird’s mouth” cuts to allow rafters to sit flat
on second floor or log wall. Allow
for the house roof overhang except where covered porches are to be
installed. Under porch roofs,
rafters should be cut flush with the ends of the second floor joists to
allow exterior siding to be installed and match up to the exterior log
wall profile. RAFTER
COLLAR INSTALLATION
After all rafters are in place, rafter
collar ties should be installed. Collars
are important, as they keep rafters from pushing out on the log walls and
from sagging in their middle. Collars
are attached to the rafters by using 2x8 lumber to ‘scab’ the rafter
and collar together with metal banding underneath.
Clean, sand, and stain (if applicable)
the rafter collars andscabbing materials efore installing.
Furthermore, create a decorative finished look by using a drill and
1” butterfly bit to counter sink holes in the scabs.
The scabs will be attached to thecollars and rafters by nailing
through these holes. The
holes will later be plugged with short pieces of 1” diameter dowel rod,
giving the appearance that the collars and rafters are doweled together.
Prepare the scabs by cutting pieces to length and drilling holes in
a consistent pattern. A
minimum of ten 16-penny nails per scab must be used.
Larger size nails and/or lag screws are recommended.
Mark collar locations on rafters, get
measurements, and make necessary cuts to collars.
As a rule of thumb, collars over a second floor should be eight
feet above the top of the log walls.
Otherwise, collar locations can be determined as follows:
Measure the distance from the top of the log wall up to the ridge
beam. Take 1/3 of the
distance you measured and add it to the height of the log wall to
determine the height of the collar.
Prepare scabbing material (2x8) to secure
collars to rafters and attach two scabs to one face of each collar.
Hold the collar in place between the two rafters and attach by
nailing the attached scabs to the rafters.
Once the collar is in place, you should install the two scabs to
the other face of the collar. But
first, tie the collar to each rafter using metal banding.
Then install scabs by nailing to the collar and the rafter over the
metal banding. Rafter collar
ties should be installed before the2x6 tongue & groove decking is
applied to the roof framing. Do
not use rafter collars with the barge rafters or the rafters directly over
log walls.
Once again, it is time to consider
electrical wiring for any overhead lights or fans that will be installed
in the second floor ceiling (roof). You
may have reason to recess wiring into the tops of some rafters before
installing the roof decking. However,
it is easier to run wiring over the top of the 2x6 tongue & groove
decking. The wiring will then
be covered with the insulation panels (have your electrician supervise any
and all wiring runs). After
all rafters are installed and any necessary wiring is run, you may
complete the installation ofyour second foor tongue & groove decking. GABLE
STUDWALL CONSTRUCTION
You should frame your gable walls at this
time, before installing roof decking. The gable wall will sit on top of the end log wall.
Use 2x6 or2x4 framing to construct a studwall with the top plate of
the studwall being the same height as the rafters.
Be certain to calculate the proper thickness needed for the 2x
studwall framing. Exterior siding and 1/2 inch rigid insulation will be applied
to the outside of this wall. The
exterior siding must properly match the exterior log wall profile
underneath it. Furthermore,
consider the interior wall sheathing.
For instance, if there is no second floor system at this gable, you
may desire interior sheeting (sheet rock, 1x8 T & G, etc.) to fit
flush with the interior of the log wall below it.
Carefully calculate the 2x thickness needed and construct the gable
end studwall with the proper width. HOUSE
ROOF TONGUE & GROOVE DECKING INSTALLATION
You are now ready to install the roof
sheathing, usually 2x6 tongue & groove. Tongue & groove roof decking should be face nailed into
each rafter with two 16-penny coated nails.
Do not nail through any wiring in the top of your rafters.
Nail each piece of tongue & groove into every rafter it sits
upon.
Begin on the low end of the rafters.
Rip the tongue or groove off the first piece to give a vertical cut
when laid perpendicularly across the top of the rafters.
Make this edge flush with the ends
of the rafters for future fascia installation.
Air entryways for ventilated roof systems
must be installed at the beginning of the roof decking installation.
It is usually installed in the second or third course of decking of
the overhang areas as shown on the next two pages.
Air entryways for ventilated roof systems under covered porches may
be installed in the manner shown on pages 70 and 71.
Under porch roofs, tongue & groove
decking should run to the inside edge of the house rafters.
The tongue OR groove should be ripped off the outer piece of
decking so that a flat edge will exist on the outer piece.
When installed, this edge should be vertical and flush with the
house rafters.
After installing the tongue and groove
roof decking, you should apply a vapor barrier on top of the roof deck.
Use 15# or 30# felt or a 4 mil. clear plastic sheeting and attach
with 7/8” plastic top cap nail or staples.
At this point, before installing roof
insulation panels, you should run electrical wiring over the top of the
tongue & groove decking if needed.
Have your electrician present to supervise this installation.
Wiring for overhead lights and fans and the like should be
installed now. Also, before
roof insulation is installed, the porch roof should be framed and decked. PORCH
ROOF FRAMING
The porch roof discussed herein is a shed
type roof attached to the house roof and consists of the following
members: porch roof support
posts, 4x8 plate around tops of posts, 4x8 porch rafters and 2x6 tongue
& groove decking. The
porch roof should be framed after the porch deck is built.
(See details under previous section on subfloor).
The following illustrations show the proper method for framing a
Premier porch roof.
The first step in porch roof framing is
to lay out the porch roof support posts. Either square or round posts should be installed on top of
the porch deck and located directly over deck supports. Posts should be properly supported underneath the porch floor
decking. Review the previous
section on Porch Deck Construction if necessary.
Clean, sand and stain porch posts before installation.
Also, make the proper cuts in the top of the posts to accommodate
the 4x8top porch plate as shown. The posts shold be cut to be 7’tall, and the following
illustrations show the proper cuts. If
you prefer a look with the porch rafters not setting as high on the house
roof, the porch posts can be trimmed to bring the whole level of the porch
roof down as much as desired.
Porch post centers are generally located
8’ to 12’ apart on the porch deck.
Window and door location may affect your post locations.
However, check your blueprints for exact post locations and set the
posts in their proper location. Toenail the bottom of each post to the porch deck and brace
the posts off with 2x4’s or other bracing material. Make sure posts are vertically plumb. Also, be certain that the posts are placed in a square
fashion so theporch roof is square. Even
if the porch deck is out of square, the porch roof must be suqare with the
house roof.
Once all posts are installed and braced
and are square and plumb, you are ready to install the top porch plate.
Clean, sand and stain 4x8’s to be used for the porch plate.
Use the proper lengths as specified on the Materials List. All splices in the 4x8 top plate must be located over porch
posts, and the plate shoudl be attached to the posts with lag bolts.
After the plate is properly installed,
mark the plate for porch rafter locations. Porch rafters should sit on the house roof directly above
thehouse rafters. See your
blueprints for exact rafter locations.
Mark the house roof for porch rafter locations.
Using the proper porch roof pitch from the blueprints, cut a porch
rafter to length, allowing a minimum 16-inch overhang off the front of the
porch. Make sure the rafter
is properly cut before cutting other rafters.
Also, do not cut all the rafters the exact same way if the porch
roof framing is not perfectly square.
Porch rafters should be toe-nailed in place until all are
installed. Once all rafters
are properly located, use 10” spikes to permanently attach rafters to
the house roof and to the porch plate.
Do not install 2x6 tongue & groove
decking to porch rafters until the house roof has been insulated. ROOF
SYSTEM INSULATION
The following diagram illustrates how the
roof insulation should be installed to allow for ventilation.
Air flow is to take place on the top side of the insulation, not
the bottom. The flat side of the insulation panels should be turned down
when installed.
You must build 2x blocking around the
perimeter of your roof, keeping the outer edge flush with rafters to allow
for eventual fascia installation. Furthermore,
you should put a strip of blocking every three feet or so along your
overhang areas to prevent insulation panels from covering up your air
entryways. Also, you do not
need to insulate overhang areas. Be
sure your blocking is the same thickness as the roof insulation panel so
the OSB will lay flush across the entire roof area when applied.
Once perimeter blocking is in place, lay
a run of insulation panels across the roof.
Butt panels tightly together as you go across keeping panel ridges
joining ridges and valleys joining valleys.
Use the Manufacturer’s Installation Manual for more detailed
instructions. Cut panels with
a circular saw to fit. Cut at
proper angles at valleys, rafters, etc. and keep a tight fit between
panels. After laying this run
of panels, install 7/16” OSB on top by nailing in the pattern shown in
the Insulation Panel Manufacturer’s Installation Manual.
Use the 5-1/2” panel screws provided to secure the OSB and
insulation panel to the roof decking.
The screws will go through the OSB, roof panel, vapor barrier, and
into the 2x6 decking. Keep
edges of the OSB flush with rafters so that fascia will fit properly when
installed.
Continue installing the panels and OSB in
this manner until the entire roof area is covered.
Leave a gap at the ridge (approximately 2 inches horizontally) to
allow airflow to escape through a ridge vent to be installed with your
finished roofing material. Roofing
felt should then be installed on top of the OSB.
The instructions provided in this Construction Guide are brief.
The Installation Manual provided by the Insulation Panel
Manufacturer should be followed carefully. PORCH
ROOF DECKING INSTALLATION
You are now ready to install the 2x6
tongue & groove decking on the porch roof rafters.
Begin at the front edge of the porch.
Rip pieces of tongue or groove at the angle of your porch roof
pitch for your first horizontal run of decking.
Install the flat edge of these ripped pieces toward the front and
keep flush with the ends of the porch rafters.
This allows fascia boards to be nailed later over the rafters and
tongue & groove decking. Butt pieces together over rafter centers and alternate
joints. Face nail the decking
using the proper nail pattern as with the house roof decking.
Apply decking all the way up to the house
roof. Cut the last horizontal run of tongue & groove to fit tightly
against the top of the OSB sheathing on the house roof.
Try not to leave a gap in the decking where the porch roof joins
the house roof. If you do not
have a hard surface where the two roofs join, shingles, to be installed
later, may be easily broken when stepped on.
Do not block air entryways or airflow of the ventilated roof
insulation system.
After the 2x6 tongue & groove is
installed, cover the decking with a vapor barrier.
Use 15# or 30# felt or a 4-mil. clear plastic and attach with
plastic-top cap nails or staples. Porch
roofs are not to be insulated.
If you wish to have any overhead lights,
fans, etc. under the porch roof, run your wiring over the top of the porch
roof decking or recess wiring into the tops of the porch rafters before
installing decking. Drill
through rafters to bring wiring out under the porch roof. Have your electrician approve your wiring.
Your porch roof and house roof are now ready for finished roofing.
|
|
CLICK HERE to learn more and/or register, and read hundreds of testimonials.
FREE Literature
FREE Monthly Newsletter
Home Shows
Quality Links
|
click the partial testimonial below to read more from this satisfied customer
|
| Questions? Click Here to e-mail Pati Site Map Please read our Privacy Statement Legal Notice | ||
| The Natural Choice For Over 32 Years © 1995-2007 Tennessee Log Homes, Inc. | ||
| CALL us: 1.800.251.9218 FAX us: 1.423.744.8156 E-MAIL us: CLICK HERE | ||
|
VISIT us: I-75, Exit 49, Halfway between Chattanooga & Knoxville, TN, across from Applebee's |
||